vegan MoFo 05: lessons in risotto-style barley

risotto alla barbabietola

Despite the heat hovering (still!) over these early-autumn evenings, for the past few weeks I have been craving risotti of all flavors. A novice at making this rich dish, I still have quite a bit to learn. In my pre-vegan days, I depended on butter and parmegiano reggiano to makeup for my lack of know-how, but my more-recent dairy abstinence hasn't put an end to my desires for something creamy and satisfying.

I've made risotto with arborio and carnaroli before, but since I'm trying to incorporate more healthier whole grains into my diet, I decided to use pearl barley instead. I've seen this idea implemented several times before, most notably by Heidi Swanson here.

My first risotto-style barley was a few days ago. I roasted a butternut squash (it weighed 2.24 lbs before removing the skin and seeds) and added it to the barley at the end. I also added sage, saffron, arugula and toasted pecans. The taste was delicious and the texture was pretty good for the first try.

Then I tried a new version with beets, apples, beet greens, toasted walnuts and a hint of cloves. The flavors were nice, but I think the texture was still lacking. Risotto made from barley will never be as creamy as its arborio or carnaroli counterparts because it has less starch. But, after comparing what I did differently between the two recipes, I think I've learned a few things that will help bring barley to its fullest potential. Everything basically comes back to helping the grain release the starch slowly. Here are some tips to help:

1. You want to help the steam escape as the steam cooks the grain too quickly. Use a wide-based, shallow pan and if you have a fan above your stove, turn it on. Don't cover the pan with a lid.
2. Start by cooking the onion and garlic and then adding in the grains to toast. You only need to toast the grains for a few minutes, just until they're hot and you can hear them making a kind of hissing sound. For me, this was about 2-3 minutes.
3. When you add your liquid, make sure that it is warm. Cold stock (or wine) shocks the grains and will prevent them from best releasing their starch.
4. Stirring frequently (especially after new additions of stock) helps the steam escape and makes for a creaming risotto.
5. Add liquid in small batches of about 1/2 cup, and only when the rest of the liquid has been absorbed.
6. You may not want to use broth for all of your liquid (you may want to use water or low-sodium broth for a portion of the necessary liquid). Since you will use more liquid than when you typically cook grains, the taste and sodium of the stock may be too overpowering.
7. Keep the grains cooking on a low-medium heat. Cooking too quickly will result in a poorly-textured risotto.
8. Right before serving, add a bit more of olive oil and stir really well to incorporate, giving it a glossy finish and enhancing the creaminess.
9. Allow the risotto to rest a minute before serving it on plates.

And, now for the recipe:

Risotto alla Barbabietola
1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 cup of pearl barley
4 cups of vegetable stock (you may not need all of this)
3 beets and their greens (if you don't have beet greens, use several handfuls of spinach or arugula, instead)
1 small apple
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 cup walnuts, lightly toasted

1. Set the oven to 425 F. Wrap the beets in foil or place in a pan and cover and set in the preheated oven. After about an hour, chop the apples into 3/4" chunks and put in the oven. When the beets and apples are tender, probably about 10-15 more minutes, remove them and allow to cool. Once the beets have cooled, remove peel and chop into 3/4" pieces.

2. Meanwhile, heat broth in a pan and keep at simmer. In a wide, shallow pan, saute onion and garlic until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add barely and toast for about 2 minutes.

3. Add wine and stir briskly until incorporated. Add broth 1/2 cup at a time, adding more only as liquid is absorbed. Continue adding liquid, stirring after every addition, until barley is just tender. The barley should be al dente, not mushy and not crunchy.

4. Add the beet greens and allow to wilt. Add the beets and apples and stir. Finally, add the olive oil and briskly stir one last time. Serve on plates and top with pieces of toasted walnuts.

lazy saturdays yield abundant rewards to those who keep their eyes on the ground

Pink Lady Salad

Well, despite the title of this post, this Saturday actually hasn't been too lazy, but it has been relaxing. I woke up early this morning because I wanted to walk to the farmers' market and run a few other errands downtown before it became too hot outside. I was excited that I needed to go back for a jacket when I left the apartment at 7:30, but a few hours later, I shed my outer layer and found myself wishing for a real autumn as I kicked a few stones into an overgrown field. Despite the increasing warmth and the run-down, abandoned surroundings, my spirits remained high as I thought about the goods in my bags: onions, zucchini, tomatoes, and delicata squash from the market; a couple of books from the library; a growing pile of pecans (for eating) and leaves (for art class); my diana camera with a (finally!) completed roll of film. I was looking at the road as I walked for more art materials (and possibly to avoid telling another friendly man in a truck that I am fine walking and that I don't need a ride) when I saw a small cluster of dandelions growing from beneath a bush. They were over a foot tall, which is impressive because it seems that usually they are pulled or picked before they reach six inches. Not that the size of the dandelion really matters. What I was actually excited about was the bundle of tall greens beneath the flowers. Although the grocery stores in Abilene have gotten better about stocking their produce sections, the dark, delicate leaves of dandelions have yet to grace the shelves. I grabbed a handful of the greens, making note of the general area so that I could return for more later...

Dandelion Greens

Don't worry, mom, I washed the leaves well (although it was after taking the picture). Talk about fresh produce! If only that were the case more often. Generally, living in Abilene and trying to eat fresh/organic/locally is quite a challenge. I would really like to take part in the Eat Local Challenge, but I know that realistically, I would have to declare so many items as exceptions that I wonder what is the point? Maybe next October I'll be living in a place where that would be realistic. But for now, I'll end with this simple, somewhat-local salad recipe--the perfect way to enjoy something fresh and cool on a beautiful, lazy Saturday afternoon.


Pink Lady Salad
(for men, too!)

a few of handfuls of arugula, spinach, and dandelion greens
a large handful of broccoli sprouts
the seeds from half a pomegranate
about 2 T raw pumpkin seeds
three small tomatoes, halved
about 1/4 c carrot and sage almond butter (recipe to follow)
a few sprigs of fresh mint
a drizzle of balsalmic vinegar (I used a fig-infused variety but regular would be fine)
a pinch of salt

combine everything and toss before serving

Carrot and Sage Almond Butter

I based the recipe for my Carrot and Sage Almond Butter off Tofu for Two's Carrot Almond Spread with Sage. I decided, however, to make a few changes as I wanted a thicker paste and I wanted the sage to be a stronger flavor. Also, I didn't toast my almonds (per the original recipe), but I still slightly cooked the carrot. I would like to try an all-raw version of this soon, but here it is in the meantime.


Carrot and Sage Almond Butter
100 g almonds, soaked for three or four hours, then drained
1 medium carrot, sliced
1 big clove garlic, sliced
8 large sage leaves
1 tsp. apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

I placed the carrot and garlic in a pan, barely covered with water and cooked for a few minutes until the carrot was just beginning to feel tender. I then placed all the ingredients in the blender, adding some of the water from cooking the carrots until the mixture blended well into a smooth paste. You may need to add additional water to get the desired consistency. I kept mine pretty thick because I prefer a hardy dip, but this would also be a delicious salad dressing if thinned.